Salt soap

When thinking about the first soap recipe of my life I decided that since it is going to be my first soap it should be extra special and it should contain my favourite ingredients. That is how the idea of coconut oil SALT SOAP was born.
salt soap

I knew from the start what I expect from this soap:

To be effective at the weekly erasing and deep cleansing, but at the same time not dry the skin but nurture it with valuable oils. After a lengthy period of thinking and calculating the recipe was put together and I began making it with high hopes. The soap is filled with sea salt which despite its high coconut oil content thanks to the 15% superfat content it does not dry the skin. The refreshing, clean fragrances like lemon and eucalyptus and all that Dead sea salt create a refreshing reviving feeling.

Characteristics of the base soap (without salt):

  • Hardness degree: 48 (29-54) – it is really very hard.
  • Caring effect: 45 (44-69) – does not dry the skin.
  • Creaminess: 16 (14-48) – depends on what we expect from this
  • Foaming index: 32 (14-46) – it foams when in contact with water even if not too much.

  • You can see the advised values in brackets.


  • 50 g avocado oil
  • 50 g olive oil
  • 90 g coconut oil
  • 160 g Dead sea salt
  • 15 drops lemon volatile oil
  • 15 drops eucalyptus volatile oil
  • 25 g NaOH
  • 72 g H2O
  • Instructions

    The base soap was made following the recipe on the web page under this link. After the thickening (pudding) process (which happened after a longer time) I added 15-15 drops of lemon and eucalyptus volatile oil and 160 grams of Dead sea salt into the mixture. As the salt soap belongs to the category of hard soaps, to avoid crumbling/breaking, it is better to cut it up after 8-10 hours and then let it ripen in the traditional way.  

    It is best to use a warm blade knife for cutting it up. The given quantities are enough to make three 125-135 gram soapies.
    Written by: Freya 22. June 2012.

    Felted soap

    felt soap

    lavender soap

    Felted soap

    The soap comes out through the felt in the form of foam, the foam contains all the natural volatile oils and minerals, which make natural soaps so special, thus the soap does not lose its quality. Felt covering protects the soap from extra quantity loss thus elabling them to last longer. It massages the skin, enhances blood circulation, clears away dead skin cells and through all that cares too, since the lanoline content of the wool threads gets washed out while bathing. Once the felt cover becomes empty, we can cut it out and reuse it as a case or purse or whatever your fantasy allows :)

    Lavender soap with lavender oil and milfoil oil

    Goat milk does not only hydrate the skin but also serves as nutrient and contains plenty of vitamins and minerals, which is highly effective for skin problems. Lavender oil: heals damaged skin, antibacterial, regenerator. Milfoil oil: Milfoil volatile oil has inflammatory and wound regenerating effects on the skin and mucus membrane. The plant apart from its volatile oil also has extra wound regenerating capacity thanks to its tannic acid content so serves well when treating wounds.
    Written by: Freya 22 June 2012

    Walnut soap

    walnut soap

    making walnut oil

    I had been thinking about making walnut soap for a long time. The last push was by an acquaintance of mine who was hunting for such a soap to treat her problematic skin and hair to swith from her shampoo. Since we have a walnut tree I began working on it and this is the result. Making it lasts quite long because you must soak the leaves and the green walnuts in oil for 4 weeks (half olive, half sunflower oil), and you have to begin making the macerate in the beginning of June when the walnuts can still bee cut up and the leaves are still light green, but waiting is woth while. You will have a softer soap as a result, therefore you should ripen it for 6-8 weeks.


  • 450g walnut macerate
  • 25g bees wax
  • 10g ripe seed oil
  • 10g cocoa butter
  • 160g dist. water
  • 64g NaOH
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt at the thickening
  • as volatile oil muscateller sage oil
  • Instructions

    Melt oils together. When both phases are 50-55℃ we pour together the fats with the lye dissolved in water. At the cordon phase you can add the salt and the volatile oil. Let it set in a form for 48 hours, its ripening phase is longer, 6-8 weeks.
    Written by: Freya 22 June 2012

    Oil extracts = liquid sunshine

    picture of walnut oil

    picture of walnut tree and oil

    Macerates or oil extract had already been used probably as medication by the Greek origin Roman Galenos and others of his era. In those times they did not know the methods of destillation process or extracting by solution. The joint word ‚phytol' in Latin and in English is made of ‚phyto' that is plant and ‚ol' that is oil. Phyto therapy also refers to healing with plants. Oil extracts are made by putting plant parts into some kind of oil carrier and ripen them, preferably in sunshine for weeks. During the process the carrier oil as natural solution material dissolves the valuable ingredients (even the volatile oils they contain). Thus the valuable therapeutic materials within the unrefined carrier oils get added to the valuable and therapeutic ingredients of the plant parts ripened in them, therefore their effect becomes multiplied. Fragrant Earth oil extracts are made with bio sunflower oil which is high in A and E vitamins containing unsaturated fat acids. You ripen it for weeks and then you can begin creation.

    Active carbon

    Active of medical carbon consists of specially carbonated plant particles: it has a really porous structure therefore its active surface is very large. The tablets are able to capture toxic materials with that surface. In order to make carbon out of wood you must heat the wood in oxigen free environment in clay or metal containers at extra high temperature. What is left is clean carbon and all those materials the wood ever contained. The so prepared wood is then brought into contact with water at 800-100 °C, thus some of the carbon particles leave turned into carbon monoxide and hydrogen gas: that is how its porous structure is achieved. Active carbon keeps giving its blessings to the soap mass as well: it deep cleans the pores of the skin, clearing away dirt effectively, also excellent in gently treating acne. "Secret" of shea butter is that its structure is quite similar to the natural protective emulsion of human skin. Shea butter also has anti inflammatory effect among others, and its high vitamin content makes it an almost perfect skin care material.

    Making felt

    Felt is an ancient origin textile, which is traditionally made with the help of water by kneading.

    Sheep are "living wool"

    Photo of coloured felt

    Basis of making felt is the felting habbit of the hair of certain animal species. Alkaline or acidous warm water makes the scales open and through kneading (calloing) the scales hook into each other. In the ready made felt, after a thorough rinsing and drying they go back to their normal state and strongly holding on to each other make the textile almost impossible to tear. You need plenty of water for this process and you should preferably use home cooked soap made of natural ingredients. Traditional manufactures use only pure sheep wool. Most refined felt products are made of Merino sheep wool. The wool of Tsigai sheep can also be used but its brown colour limits its usage possibilities. The long threaded wool of Racka sheep can only be used mixed with the wool of other breeds, but the felt made of it has a rougher surface. Felt plays an important role in clothing, as a typical material of hats among others. It also has industrial agricultural and medicinal uses. Its wide range of use is due to its water, and temperature proof capacities and its insulating charcteristic. Due to flame proof characteristic of the felt they often make protective clothing of firemen and smelters out of it and often it is used to make curtains of theatres. Felt is also used in making folk art and manufactured products and other works of art.

    Step 1.:

    Sheep shearing

    Birkanyírás from Vitalissoap on Vimeo.

    2nd step :

    Cleaning wool

    In order lo loosen most of the dirt, wool must be soaked in clean, cold water for 2-3 days.

    Cleaning sheep wool

    First of all you must be aware that raw sheep wool is often extremely dirty and stinky. You are very lucky if you get wool sheared from a fairly clean sheep. The wool is full of all kinds of dirt, the hardest ti taking plant parts out of it. Once you lay down the wool you must cut off the shit covered bits first. Then you shake it out. This is when most dust, second cuttings and plants come out. In order to loosen most of the dirt, wool must be soaked in clean, cold water for 2-3 days. You should not leave it for longer because algae will start to grow which are even harder to clean. Then it is time for the real washing. You must wash it in really hot water, about 60 degrees Celsius. Leave it in for some time, but water should be kept hot. This process can be repeated once or twice, then rinse it 4-5 times, then spinning and drying ends the process. In old times women would sit in a circle paying attention to each other and singing while doing this work.

    3rd step


    Carting is when the threads of the wool get nicely in line. Then it is time for wreathing and felting. You can see an old carting machine in the photo. It is a lot of work until raw wool becomes a nice clean material ready for wreathing and felting, but it gives a good feeling. Once it is done in community, it becomes a special session.